Mon 18th: a scenic, calm and sunny ferry trip across the Cook strait (by no means a certainty) and to Picton. The Tombstone hostel is fantastic- friendly owners collect me from the ferry, the beds are comfy, it's super clean and quiet, free brekkie, free wifi and hot tub. Ah.
Tues 19th: 8am water taxi to the start of the Queen Charlotte track, a 71km hike I'm planning to do over 3 days but with water taxi moving my bag so just a day sack to carry. It's all getting a bit Cook-esque round here starting at Ship Cove where Cook visited 5 times on his voyages to repair the ship and re-stock. Today I walk around Resolution bay and Endeavour Inlet- more Cook-inspired names. It's a fantastic day, early mist rapidly burns away as the sun rises and there's an intense noise of insects in the bush, birdsong too but not as much as Captain Cook would have heard. It's a beautiful walk, lush forest giving way to sea views at regular intervals and a couple of accessible beaches with waves lapping delicately at pebbles.
I collect my bag from the jetty of Noeline's homestay and it's consequently a bit of a killer final approach uphill. Time for a swim- the water's clear, flat and pretty cold but improves after the initial shock and wonderfully refreshing. Then I warm up again in the sun.
Later after the sun is no longer reflecting on the water I see an eagle ray, big starfish and a plethora of other creatures living around the jetty.
Queen Charlotte Day 2, Wed 20th:
Awoken to a perfect morning and a perfect view I realise there's a few blisters to patch up before leaving my bag on the jetty and heading back to the track. It's a harder day today- not just because of the blisters and less-than-fresh-legs; there's more up and down as I walk along the ridge, at times it seems as soon as the path ascends it changes it's mind and descends again. However there's views at regular intervals alternating sides and occasionally both and by 3pm I'm in Portage. By 4pm I've had a refreshing swim and am enjoying a beer- ah, hard life.
Queen Charlotte Final day, Thurs 21st:
It's slower to get hot today but another perfect weather day. The view opens up more to Kenepuru sound on the other side to Queen Charlotte sound and at one point there's just a narrow isthmus of land between the two. It's flattish walking after an initial climb or two and I'm just on the last km when a wasp stings my foot- exposed in the hiking sandals I'd resorted to after the blisters developed- the last km is consequently rather long and painful!
Fri 22nd: I stay the night in Anakiwa, another lovely hostel, then get a lift back by boat. It's turned overcast and there's an cold Southerly wind- it's a day for staying inside for some rest and recupperation.
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