Chiang Mai: The Final Stop (20th-30th March)

Arriving and overnighting in Bangkok then flying on to Chiang Mai, Thailand hits as a sensory overload of noise, smell and sights. Every street filled with a jumble of buildings, road-side kitchens and carts very often in front of them, scooters dodging cars and tuk tuks, smells of food and massage oils then bad drains.






Chiang Mai is an old city with a moat and some remaining bits of wall. There's a nice vibe to it though still it seems busy, noisy and hot especially after New Zealand. At this time of year there's a burn off in the countryside around which creates a hazy smog over the city.

Night market

I'm here to volunteer at a dog charity 12km out of Chiang Mai. It's pretty different from what I'm used to- more basic of course, but also there are dogs everywhere underfoot. There's plenty of neutering to be done and interesting cases to see. Many of the resident dogs have some kind of problem be it large or small and there's certainly not a full quota of functional limbs. Most seem happy enough though and staff and lay volunteers walk them and lavish love.

By evening time I'm pretty tired from the busy days and working in the heat so I have a meal, sometimes a massage (both very cheap) and an early night. I have a couple of days off during my 10 days in Chiang Mai and do some exploring, visit some of the temples in the city and wander the markets. By the time I'm leaving the daytime temperature is getting up to an uncomfortable 38 C.


My thoughts have been turning increasingly towards home as the time gets nearer but it almost doesn't feel real. I fly back to Bangkok and board the BA flight to London. The plane staff are the most numerous English people I've seen for a while. I take sleeping meds and pass most of the night in artificial slumber, then we're landing and Britain in aerial looks a bit damp and a rather muddy brown. Back on English soil. It feels strange, slightly alien to be back but as I cross from the plane to the terminal the blast of freezing air through my thin clothing starts to remind me; I'm home.

 

Farewell New Zealand (17th-19th March)

After Mount Cook my itinerary is all but at an end. The stray bus stops one final night in Peel forrest. There's an option to go rafting but it's expensive, sounds scary and is not good weather. So we pass a rather murky Lake Tekapo and tiny quaint Church of the Good Shepherd then spend an afternoon indoors whilst the rain increases in strength outside.


Next day to Christchurch airport and a short cut back to Auckland. I stay with Susan and Pete again glad to be in a nice house and having a room to myself. Next day it's off long haul Auckland to Bangkok.

Queenstown (13th, 14th)

First day in Queenstown and the cloud is hanging low across the mountains in the morning clearing to blue skies and perfect sunshine later. Today I'm in Middle Earth- seeing some of the locations where filming for Lord of the Rings and other films was done. Our guide has many entertaining stories for us about the actors and the locations and when we can't remember a scene he has pictures for us to compare it to. He himself was an extra, an Orc.



14th: Ben Lomond, one the mountains surrounding the lake is my target today- 1748m high it's a fair climb but my legs are a bit more used to it. I also cheat a little by taking the gondola almost half way. The views over Lake Wakatipu and towards Mt Aspiring National park are amazing and it's a great weather day too.

Queenstown (just briefly), Milford Sound and Stewart island (9th- 12th March)

9th March: A later start and a quick whizz from Wanaka to Queenstown after a detour to Arrowtown and stopping to watch a few people pay a large amount of money to jump off AJ Hackett's bungee bridge. Eeek, it makes my stomach lurch just to watch.

In Queenstown I find a few people I know from previous journeys and head out for a drink. Actually from now on people keep re-appearing unexpectedly.

10th March: Milford Sound is about 70km West of Queenstown but 380km by road, there's talk of blasting a tunnel through the Livingstone mountain range to make a short cut but for now it's sit back and enjoy the ride. Along Lake Wakatipu to Kingston, through Mossburn and pretty Te Anau where farm land starts to give way to mountains and we enter wild Fiordland National Park. There's a few stops at lookouts - the Eglinton planes and various small lakes and waterfalls also at Monkey creek where we fill our bottles with wonderfully pure and cold melted glacier water. Out here Moose were once released but no-one knows if they're still here, likewise an ancient Maori tribe, and recently a crashed helicopter was found- lost for over 13 years.



The road winds through glacial valleys and our driver tells us about avalanches and landslips which cause frequent problems. Then we pass through the Homer tunnel hearing about the isolated communities who lived out here building the road in a post-war depression project. Through the tunnel down New Zealand's steepest descent and we're soon at Milford Sound. A boat cruise takes us up and down the Sound. Not a Sound at all but a Fjord. Missed by Captain Cook though he did name nearby Doubtful Sound (as he was in doubt that having sailed into it whether he would get out of it) and visit Dusky Sound. There are seals and waterfalls cascading in places though with the recent dry weather not as many as always we're told. The mountains rise up steeply from the sea, tree-covered and surveying.

We stay at a small place called Gunn's camp in the shadow of mountains and accursed by sandflies then next day travel down to Invercargill and Bluff to catch the ferry to Stewart island, New Zealand's third island.

The bumpy crossing is apparently smooth for the Foveaux strait. Once landed at Oban a tiny place, there's time for a walk to see the sunset, it's cold though, the most Southerly of my travels so far.

Another walk in the morning around the coast but it's overcast. A few days might have been better with a chance to go further into the island and take some longer walks. But it's back across the sea and back up to Queenstown.

Back on the Ground and up the Mountain (8th March)

Perhaps it's a character flaw- I'll blame my parents- but increasingly when I see mountains I want to climb them these days and there are mountains all around the lake beckoning to me so today I've decided to walk around the lake to Roy's peak. I'm not sure who Roy is but it's a decent mountain at 1578m and it's not until later that I realise starting from lake level at 300m makes it a jolly big climb. Actually, I've been used to knocking a good 1/3rd off the DOC's advised times but this time my cockiness is punished!

The views are stunning but after an hour and a half to reach the track it's 3 hours solid climbing up. The views are spectactular, panoramic. 2 hours down and I'm exhausted, feet blistering and with the temperature up to 28 C today and brilliant sunshine I'm hot and dehydrated from taking only 2 L of water. Nevermind, a rehydrating and relaxing evening whilst the legs quietly howl and the satisfaction of bagging a peak!

Skydiving! (7th March)

It's atmospheric in the morning - low clouds lie in a few bands across the mountainous backdrop of the lake, some snow visible in the distance on the higher peaks, soon the sun comes up and the clouds overhead start to disappear, it's a perfect day.

And I realise that the weather's not going to let me off this skydive I've booked onto at 2pm which I'm trying hard not to think about it. At the drop zone I see some people landing gently which is a bit reassuring but the tiny plane is almost as terrifying as the thought of jumping out of it.


My tandem skydive instructor, Eugene, introduces himself, adjusts my harness and beckons me onto the plane. "Your one-way plane ride: 15 minutes up" he says, "and a bit quicker down". I'm already briefed and in a jump-suit. I'm facing backwards astride a bench trying to abstract myself from reality, he's behind ready to attach to me. We lean back as the plane takes off. The door is large and ominous just in front of me, rolling up to open. There's a couple of other tandem couples on the plane, I'm jumping first from 12 000 feet. It sounded high enough without the extra 3000.

Deep breaths. Eugene keeps checking I'm ok and as the plane takes off names lakes, rivers and mountains. I don't take it in. The scenery is beautiful and I keep looking out of the window- like out of a commercial plane, I'm used to that. It's hard to appreciate under the circumstances- this is the most insane thing I've ever done. He attaches our harnesses together and there's a comfort in the presence of a body close behind mine- carrying a parachute. "We're at 5000 feet" he tells me giving me a fleece hat to put on. Streuth, we're going higher? I inadvertently think about death, forceably redirect and tell myself to breathe deeply again. "I know how you feel"- Eugene's voice in my ear. "No you don't!" Maybe once, but you keep doing this you insane person.

 


"Ok, let's get ready" he says. Oh God, I'm not ready- how could I ever be? Goggles on, everything tightened, oh good I can focus on discomfort. "Move forward".

I don't remember the door opening or how I complied but I'm sitting on the edge. Head back, hips forward, legs under as instructed, just a thin sliver of connection with solidity. Don't look down- my own instruction. "Hold your harness"- I'd rather hold the plane....Before I can take stock of this ultimate in terror we're falling, my stomach's left behind and I'm screaming. But then.... it no longer feels like falling. The human body can only really measure acceleration and decelaration afterall and with no reference point it really doesn't feel like we're moving yet we're travelling downwards at 200km per hour!


There's the rush of wind, my mouth is open first from screaming, now from smiling, the wind is making my face distort (I'm thinking about G-force) but the air feels thin and hard to breathe. It's an exhilarating feeling, there's too much sensation for fear to have enough space. 45 seconds of freefall and the parachute's opened- another scream and a curse from me as we seem to jolt upwards at a rapid rate. Then, we're floating. Drifting and soaring, the rush of the freefall and the confusion of sensations behind as we spend the next 5 minutes circling down. But as the ground gets closer we seem to be accelerating and I'm afraid again, I'm trusting (there wasn't much choice) but still amazed that we land in the right spot, gently, upright.

What a strange thing to do. My world seems to have changed and my knees are a bit wobbly but everyone else is carrying on just the same. I just jumped out of a plane! (although jumped is exaggerated really. Was scooted out really as the person behind me to whom I was attached jumped is more accurate). I talk to a French girl who jumped after me- she said she'd been terrified as soon as I jumped and she had to watch me and 1 other before it was her turn. She understood too that the world wasn't quite the same anymore.

To Wanaka (6th March)

I get up early next morning and cycle again to Lake Matheson 6km away. This time the lake is mirroring very nicely and I can see the twin peaks with their icing of snow but it's a bit overcast. I have an express hike around the lake and cycle back to get ready for the bus.


The day doesn't improve and as we drive down the West coast it's grey and raining. At Haast we turn inland and stop in a couple of places to see some waterfalls and blue pools. Plagued by sandflies however! The last hour of the drive is stunning as Mt Aspiring National Park opens up and Lake Hawea and Lake Wanaka appear backdropped by the Southern Alps and by the time we arrive in Wanaka sunshine showing its scenery off to best advantage.

Fox Glacier (5th March)

A guided day hike on the Fox Glacier is today's plan and it's blue sky and sunshine to herald the day, my favourite! We walk up the steep valley side and drop down onto the glacier after fastening crampons over boots and taking a ski pole to help us- or, as our guide said, to poke things with.

It's a bit grubby, there's been no rainfall for a while, rock falls continually from the valley face but there's nothing to wash it off with at present. In fact, despite the fact that the area receives about 10m rainfall a year they're actually in drought.

We walk up the glacier as far as it's possible to go- an area of deep crevases. In fact the company are trying to fill in these to make a walking route up to where the helicopters land but as the crevasses can be 100m long by 2m wide and 10+m deep and it's done by people with ice axes it understandably takes a long while. Meanwhile the glacier is shifting and changing.

It's a fun but exhausting day. We see evidence of ice moles but no penguins.

West Coast to Franz Josef 1st- 4th March

West Coast to Franz Josef 1st- 4th March

After heading down the West Coast via the Punakaiki "Pancake rocks", Greymouth and Hokitika we reach Franz Josef. It feels a bit like a ski resort to me, the further South we go the colder it's been getting and now the first glimpse of snow on the mountains.

The weather's being uncooperative next morning (a phenomenon I'm no longer used to after so much time in Australia!) and the helicopters are grounded due to too much cloud. That was how I'd planned to get up onto the glacier. I hopefully re-book then head for a walk up to the glacier face. You can't get very close - the face is too unstable to be safe and some tourists have died previously- so we're back behind the safety barriers. There's no safe way to walk onto Franz Josef glacier at present, access is only by helicopter.

Back along the valley floor where meltwater forms an icy river and small waterfalls course down the steep valley sides to the rainforest- one of the unique features.


Fox and Franz Josef glaciers, just 2 of about 60 in New Zealand, are unusual because their terminal faces are at rainforest level giving them World Heritage status. They're also some of the fastest moving glaciers in the world.

Finally on the 3rd re-booking the helicopter trip goes ahead. We fit crampons and spend a few hours hiking up the ice, admiring deep, blue coloured crevasses and squeezing through a few ice tunnels, spotting a chamois on the valley scree slopes. Glaciers are almost alive, there's constant noise of water running and dripping, as the middle flows faster that the edges there are creaks and groans as ice cracks and shifts.

Luckily the cloud stays high enough for the helicopter to pick us up again and it's back to the ground and for me a short bus trip to the small Fox glacier village. I cycle out to Lake Matheson - mirror lake where the reflections of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman can be seen when the elements are cooperating.

Abel Tasman National Park (26th-28th Feb)

60km up the road from Nelson is New Zealand's smallest yet one of its favourite National Parks. There's beautiful bush, coastline and a whole host of activities here. We stay close to the start of the Abel Tasman track and by just opening the curtain of my cabin I could see the sunrise from my bed.

I'd hoped to walk most of the track as two one-day walks but there are some sections with tide- dependant crossings and the tides were not fitting with the water taxis. I walk about half of it in one day, 28km, after taking a water taxi up to Onetahuti. It's a lovely walk with some great views and beaches to stop at for a swim or a sit.

The previous day I'd been out on a Catamaran sailing and a cloudy morning had given way to a sunny afternoon. We passed seals basking on rocks and saw a penguin in the water, fishing. Thanks to the skipper doing some fishing of his own and not wanting the catch that took care of my dinner!

Nelson (24th-25th Feb)

Onto sunny Nelson- because apparently it's more or less invariably sunny here. Another nice, quiet hostel and I have a wander to the cathedral and around the town which has a relaxed vibe.

Next day I take a walk up to the lookout at the centre of New Zealand. Well it's sort of the centre in that it's the centre of Nelson which is the central region.

I visit the local museum which, like many local museums has an intriguing hodge-podge of exhibits including but by no means limited to Maori artefacts, fossils, stuffed animals, death masks and ladies bloomers. There's some interesting displays about the colonials and how Nelson came to be and a temporary exhibition about the endangered giant carnivorous snail.

Marlborough Wine Tasting (Sat 23rd)

The Sauvignon Blanc grown and created in Marlborough is possibly the best in the world and certainly my favourite so I think it's only right to spend a day paying homage to it!

I love the scenery of vineyards- especially in places where they plant roses next to vines as an early warning against pests. It's even nicer here with the backdrop of mountains. I think I visit about 6 wineries which are lovely. As well as the Sauv Blanc there's Chardonnays, Rieslings, Pinot gris and Pinot noir.


Back mid afternoon for an impromptu nap...

 

To The South Island and Queen Charlotte Track- 18th-21st

Mon 18th: a scenic, calm and sunny ferry trip across the Cook strait (by no means a certainty) and to Picton. The Tombstone hostel is fantastic- friendly owners collect me from the ferry, the beds are comfy, it's super clean and quiet, free brekkie, free wifi and hot tub. Ah.


Tues 19th: 8am water taxi to the start of the Queen Charlotte track, a 71km hike I'm planning to do over 3 days but with water taxi moving my bag so just a day sack to carry. It's all getting a bit Cook-esque round here starting at Ship Cove where Cook visited 5 times on his voyages to repair the ship and re-stock. Today I walk around Resolution bay and Endeavour Inlet- more Cook-inspired names. It's a fantastic day, early mist rapidly burns away as the sun rises and there's an intense noise of insects in the bush, birdsong too but not as much as Captain Cook would have heard. It's a beautiful walk, lush forest giving way to sea views at regular intervals and a couple of accessible beaches with waves lapping delicately at pebbles.

I collect my bag from the jetty of Noeline's homestay and it's consequently a bit of a killer final approach uphill. Time for a swim- the water's clear, flat and pretty cold but improves after the initial shock and wonderfully refreshing. Then I warm up again in the sun.

Later after the sun is no longer reflecting on the water I see an eagle ray, big starfish and a plethora of other creatures living around the jetty.

 


Queen Charlotte Day 2, Wed 20th:

Awoken to a perfect morning and a perfect view I realise there's a few blisters to patch up before leaving my bag on the jetty and heading back to the track. It's a harder day today- not just because of the blisters and less-than-fresh-legs; there's more up and down as I walk along the ridge, at times it seems as soon as the path ascends it changes it's mind and descends again. However there's views at regular intervals alternating sides and occasionally both and by 3pm I'm in Portage. By 4pm I've had a refreshing swim and am enjoying a beer- ah, hard life.



Queen Charlotte Final day, Thurs 21st:

It's slower to get hot today but another perfect weather day. The view opens up more to Kenepuru sound on the other side to Queen Charlotte sound and at one point there's just a narrow isthmus of land between the two. It's flattish walking after an initial climb or two and I'm just on the last km when a wasp stings my foot- exposed in the hiking sandals I'd resorted to after the blisters developed- the last km is consequently rather long and painful!

Fri 22nd: I stay the night in Anakiwa, another lovely hostel, then get a lift back by boat. It's turned overcast and there's an cold Southerly wind- it's a day for staying inside for some rest and recupperation.

Zealandia and Conservation in the City- Sun 17th

First a walk past seat of government today- the ugly modern Beehive, incongrous next to the classic Parliament House and neogothic Parliament library. Then I take the 2minute cable car up the hill. At the top is a cable car museum. I'm not so interested in how it all works but what did fascinate me was the short film about the 400+ small private and infinitely quirky cable cars that exist in Wellington to allow people living up the steep hillside to transport themselves as they get older, pets and groceries. I think "cable car" might have to onto the list of requirements for my future house (so far including turrets, secret passages and a double spiral staircase).



Moa Model

From the top of the cable car I was planning to walk to Zealandia- a 2.25 square km wildlife sanctuary- but there's a bus so even better. Zealandia is an incredible concept, a predator proof fence was constructed, after testing to see what was needed to keep out rabbits, stoats, weasels, ferrets, cats, mice, rats, hedgehogs and possums- all introduced species that either eat the birds or their eggs or destroy their environement- then they were all elimated and once that was done kiwis and other native species were introduced. Some were already there, some moved in. Supplementary feeding is done because the bush will take 500 years to return to what it was, large pines are gradually being removed and natives planted. Supplementary feeding also aims to keep the birds that can fly from flying out.

It's the first time that this has been done on mainland New Zealand, many islands have already been turned into predator- free sanctuaries and endangered birds thrive there but constant monitoring and trapping of predators who swim to shore is needed.


Before Europeans reached New Zealand the Moa birds- some of them 3m high giants- were already extinct, probably largely due to hunting for food. With them went the giant eagle that used to eat them (or small children if it so desired). Europeans introduced the above species and also goats, deer, chamois and pigs. Actually I think I read somewhere that the stoats were to eat the rabbits- uh oh! Birds in New Zealand had evolved without mammalian predators ; and many with some unique quirky features, many lost the ability to fly and they would freeze in response to airborne predators who looked for movement. Additionally they took a long time to reproduce (unlike many other bird species where they can lay more eggs the same season if one clutch are lost). They were instantly vulnerable to predatory introduced- mammals and many of their fragile environments were damaged by deer, pigs and goats.


Takahe

Among many, some I can't identify, I see the Kaka- a type of parrot and some Takahe- small turkey- sized birds with colourful feathers. There's certainly plenty of bird song as I wander along the paths. I return at night to spot the nocturnal Little Spotted Kiwi. We hear plenty of rustling about in the bush and hear the male's high pitched call before we finally see one. Terribly cute. The kiwi is another oddity- almost mammalian with fur-like feathers, nostrils at the end of its beak and barely any wings. There's also banks of glowworms, the Tuatara are out (a reptile in a class of it's own, that likely roamed the earth at the same time as the dinosaurs and may have had 3 eyes originally!) Maud island frogs, wetas (a giant grass-hopper sort of creature) and a native duck.



Kiwi (from internet)

Wellington and Te Papa- Sat 16th

It's not too windy - an unfortuate tendency of Wellington's. It's a good day for exploring- and there seems to be a lot going on. From Cuba street with it's coffee shops there's buskers, morris dancers and a group of people in wetsuits with cardboard fins (I assume) strapped to their arms pretending to be whales maybe, I'm not sure.

Heading up a steep path to Mount Victoria lookout for a view of the city I see racing boats out on the harbour, people swimming and later see paddle boarders too.


Te Papa museum is great- laid back feeling (you don't even have to leave your back pack and it's free) in a great building. A shaking house in the earthquake/ volcano section - for this is a big part of Wellington life. Then there's fibreglass trolls from the Hobbit looking a bit too lifelike and there's also, rather curiously, a preserved giant squid.
However on enquiring about the surfboard made of paua shell I hear that it's in storage. Still it's a cool museum, cafe sat next to a Maori canoe and a singing troup wandering about (it's a crazily lively place). Outside on the harbour young men are taking it turns to jump into the water from a platform and the Rainbow Warrier III is docked in harbour. There's nice public spaces and a clean, open feel to it all.

Mordor and Mount Doom: The Tongariro Crossing: 14th Feb

Leaving Whakahoro we go back into the Tongariro National park and head to the start of the Tongariro Crossing. It's not actually possible to do the whole crossing because the mountain keeps erupting but walking from Mangatepopo we skirt round Mt Ngauruhoe's conical volcanic dome (better known from Lord of The Rings as Mt Doom. Levelling off then climbing to the saddle between Tongariro and Ngauruhoe. It's a clear day with warm sunshine but as we climb there's a strong alpine wind chilling us even as the climb warms us.

It's spectactular scenery- perhaps a little like the surface of Mars for there's nothing in the way of vegetation but the colours of the rock are amazing. Then there's Emerald lakes which we scramble down to- truly emerald in colour, odiferous steam escaping from vents nearby. Back up to the saddle and a detour track up to the Tongariro summit- a ragged mountain due to many eruptions. Behind it, still with some snow on it is Mt Ruapehu. Then there's only 2 hours to make it back to the bus so it's an express descent and there's a cold beer waiting for us- much appreciated after 6+ hours walking.

Next day is a chance for the muscles to recover as we drive on down to Wellington.

Heading South in the North Island

Cathedral Cove

I get the bus back to Auckland straight after diving and stay with Susan and Pete again. Then catch the Stray backpacker bus on the 9th.

We head out to the Coromandel peninsula and visit Hot Water beach. Here, due to, lets call them, geothermal processes, the sand is heated and if you dig you can build your own spa pool. (Or wait for someone else to dig one then steal it) Actually I got so hot I had to go and cool down in the sea!

After that we stay at Hahei and walk along the coast to Cathedral cove- it's a beautiful day for a spot of coast walking and swimming.


Raglan- 10th Feb

Over to the West coast today via Bridal falls waterfall and then to surfing town of Raglan. I hire a board and head out- I catch a few and think my surf skills might be improving but it's a bit flat, I have a swim too which is a nicer temperature with the wetsuit on.


 

Mourea: 11th Feb

If someone had told me that today I was going to end today doing the hokey cokey in Maori I wouldn't have been terribly convinced. Audience participation I generally dislike...

But first. From Raglan it's not too far to Waitomo where there are some caves. This being New Zealand they've turned many of them into adventure destinations but I'm more interested in the gentle sights of the glowworm cave. It's limestone scenery outside suddenly reminding me of the Yorkshire dales. The glowworms are spectacular- especially seen from a raft gently drifting through. There's also a cave with some bones from a small species of Moa (all now extinct) which must have perished falling in there (proof, our Maori guide jokes, that the Maori didn't eat all of them!)


Our overnight stop is a cultural one at a working Maree (Maori meeting place). We're given a bit of a briefing first because our welcome is to be that which one tribe would give to another (having also tried to establish that there was no malicious intent). Briefed we follow protocol and there's a bit of ceremonial nose-touching whilst shaking hands with our hosts to negogiate. Things get a bit easier after this because it's dinner time. We're kept amused and taken for a quick walk to the waterfall some of the group are planning to raft tommorrow and told a bit about traditional medicines. Then they sing some songs, demonstrate the poi dance (a sort of tennis ball sized thing on a string that's twirled and caught) and then draw us in. The hokey cokey with Maori words for body parts which proves pretty funny, they then try to teach us females the poi dance and the males the haka (war dance). We bed down on mattresses in the Maree- where they also lay out the dead for 2 nights (luckily no one's died recently) and we sleep well.

Hot mud

Geisser

Rotorua and Taupo (12th)

The air was smelling a bit suspect already but as we reach Rotorua there's no mistaking the sulphorous volcanic gas. Whilst some more adrenalin-fuelled people are rafting, the rest of us have a look around Whakarewarewa (easier to type than say-and that's the abbreviated name-) a thermal village where local Maoris have always lived with the geothermal pools- and still use them for bathing, laundry, cooking and predicting the weather. There's a geiser at the edge but the larger one doesn't go whilst we're waiting.

Given that with steam cookers you can't burn anything I'm a bit jealous! However you'd never know when you had problems with your drains living there!

We stay in Taupo which smells a bit better.

Blue duck station, Whakahoro

Whakahoro- 13th Feb

It's off the beaten track a bit today out to Blue duck station in Whakahoro. A cattle/sheep station that have diversified into tourism. There's various activities but a few of us just decide to take a steep hike and are rewarded by beautiful views. It's a lovely spot, sleeping just near a river, fantastic stars in the clear sky.

Northland Part 2: Wreck diving (7th, 8th Feb)

I'm back in Paihia now the weather's improved and with the local dive company am heading out to Rainbow warrior- the wreck of a Greenpeace ship which protested in 1985 against French nucelar testing in the Pacific and was bombed by secret service agents of that country. It took 10 years for nuclear testing to stop but Rainbow Warrior was gifted to the sea and re-sunk in the Cavalli islands where it's formed an artificial reef.

We gear up and help launch our boat from the beach before hanging on as we speed out to the mooring. It's a backwards roll out of the boat and descending down a line until we see her- covered in seaweeds and encrusting anemones which look like flowers- it's beautiful. Inside there's many fish hiding in the gloom and silhouetting against the window holes.


After a surface interval on an island we head down to a reef, spot a really big stingray and see more of the kelp landscape.



I'm exhausted that evening and sleep soundly ready for another dive day.

This time it's the Canterbury, nearer Pahia, a navy frigate that's been down a shorter time than the rainbow warrior. I enjoy the dive more- perhaps just more used to the water temperature and gear. We spend a bit more time swimming through this one- narrow corridors and the bridge- it's peaceful, not eery but sort of magical. Swimming where feet were meant to walk- watching the fish go about their lives where people once did.