Adelaide to Perth (16th-25th Jan) Part 1: Across the Nullarbor





Wed 16th: It's pretty hot, up in the 40s as I start this final camping trip which will cover 4000 -odd kilometres on a slightly convoluted route to Perth (but luckily the extreme temperatures only last a few days). North of Adelaide and into the Flinder's ranges first. There's a walk at Alligator gorge and we should be doing another but it's too hot for a long climb- we head to Quorn swimming pool for the afternoon instead. Camp is in Warren gorge amongst the Yellow-footed rock wallabies and it's a stunning spot. I'm happy to be back in a swag, sleeping under the stars and awaking with the birds, lying looking up at the brightening sky and the gum trees. Ah, I'm going to miss this!

Whirlwind

Thurs 17th: A long drive next day, through Port Augusta, Iron knob and Kimba, half way across Australia. We go swimming at the beach at Venus bay, it's intensely hot, when it cools down we walk along the cliff path to spot dolphins. We stay at Coodlie park caravan park and go out in the evening to look for wildlife. At last a wild wombat spot!

Fri 18th: To Bairds Bay this morning and out to swim with dolphins and Australian sealions. The water's pretty cold (next stop Antartica afterall) but it's amazing to be in the water first with a pod of dolphins, who play and swim round us and then with some sealions- all wild, no feeding, they simply choose to come and have a look and play. The sealions are like puppies- big eyes, cute whiskers, intensely loveable. On the boat we get in close to the beaches and see the sealions basking and the big males causing trouble. Plus comorants and flocks of Pelicans with their unlikely take- offs.

After lunch we have a surf lesson which is good fun then we head West, through Streaky bay and onto Fowlers Bay to camp.

Sat 19th: Up for sunrise over the sea, brekkie and then we start the Nullarbor- a long driving day ahead on the Eyre highway, named after John Edward Eyre one of the great explorers who spent 8 months trekking across here in 1841. We cross the dog fence and then stop above the Australian Bight- where the cliffs drop an abrupt 120m to the sea below. At the border we eat the rest of the fresh fruit and veg before crossing the quarantine point and turn back our watches 2 1/2 hours. We see the ruins of Eucla telegraph station once the link between WA and the rest of the country- eaten now by the sanddunes- and travel Australia's longest, straightest road. The Nullarbor isn't quite as devoid of trees as it's name suggests and the scenery is more variable than anticipated. And if you wanted you could play 18 holes of golf but unfortunately they're spread over 1365km! It's good to reach camp- a beautiful bush camp by a water hole at Afgan rocks, we have a camp fire (carefully) then sleep under the stars.



Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand NP

Sun 20th: I awake early, cold, swag damp on the outside from the dew, morning light beautiful. We travel the rest of the Nullarbor and pass through Norseman- the town named after a prospector's horse who kicked up a large nugget of gold in 1894. Esperance for supplies then on to Cape Le Grande NP. We're camping in Lucky Bay right next to the beach. This beach apparently has the whitest sand in the word, the sea is an sensational bright turquoise blue under a sunny sky and we're feeling pretty lucky!

Craig our guide drives us a few kms up the coast we then walk back through some beautiful bushland with sea views finishing up on the beach where we swim. Emerging from the sea the resident kangaroos who are pretty relaxed about people are drinking the water which seeps out of the sand dunes. It's an utterly perfect scene.