Northland: 3rd-8th Feb

I head North of Auckland to Paihia and the Bay of Islands with the intention of doing some diving.

4th Jan:
Diving in the Bay of Islands is cancelled due to heavy winds and swell. I'd woken up to the sound of the rain so it's something of a relief that there is no requirement to get into the water afterall! However there's not an awful lot to do in Paihia. I walk along the coast a little to Waitangi. The Waitangi treaty day is 6th Feb and on route there's already some stuff going on. The representative of the governor- the Crown's representative is officially welcomed (though the Maori welcome looks a tad hostile to my novice gaze). Later at the visitor centre I learn a bit more.

Waitangi day commemorates the treaty of 1840 between the UK and the United Tribes of New Zealand to try and preserve a lot of the land rights. Sometimes on Waitangi day there are a lot of protests but this year turned out to be peaceful. I'll learn a bit more about the Maori in a few days time.



5th:
An hour South to Whangerai (pronounced Fahn-ga-ray) a small town with an attractive riverside where the posh yachts moor up. After checking in I visit the Clapham's clocks - a collection of clocks which belonged to Archibald Clapham, a Yorkshire man who then settled in Whangerai. I finally discover why the in the nursery rhyme, the mouse did run up the clock! I take a bus out to the waterfalls and enjoy a bush walk back via a steep view point. In the evening I walk a few minutes from the hostel into the bush where I've been told glow worms can be found. I've never seen a glowworm. Its dark in the paucity of my torch beam but suddenly there they are. Pinpricks of light lighting up the bushes either side of the path, where many are close together it's like looking up at the night sky- beautiful, magical.

6th:
Finally I'm out for a dive- in the Poor Knights islands. It's some of the best subtropical diving in the world but I only really have tropical experience. I'm in a jolly thick wetsuit and hood and it's still cold but Tutukaka dive look after us well with hot drinks in between and we try to warm up in the sun. The Eastern Australian Current (EAC) actually brings some tropical fish down into this area- they shouldn't really be here. It's a kelp jungle - shifting in the swell amongst it are pretty little nudibranchs (sea slugs) and ugly camouflaged Scorpion fish.

HELLO NEW ZEALAND! Auckland 28th Jan-2nd Feb

Muriwai Beach

In Auckland I stay with Susan and Pete; Susan's a Vet I used to work with and she and Pete have been living in NZ for 2 1/2 years. It's amazing to be in a house and see people I know! For me it's about 3 in the morning by the time I'm finally there, local time is 8am. I head to bed for a few hours and in the afternoon we hit the beach at Muriwai, just West of Auckland. It's a national holiday and there's a fair few people on the black-sand beach and a colony of Gannets round the corner. In the evening a BBQ at some friends of theirs- there's New Zealand lamb and Green-lipped mussels- awesome!

Auckland Skyline

I end up having a pretty relaxing few days- it wasn't the plan. The plan was to make a plan but I've basically collapsed. The first day I sleep, the following I make it into the city and up the Sky Tower for views of the city.



Just off the Auckland coast is a volcanic island; Rangitoto- formed 600 years ago. I catch the ferry one day for a hike around and to the summit, a strange landscape amidst lumps of volcanic rock. There's traps all over the island- trying to elimate the mammalian pests which threaten so many of New Zealand's flightless birds. It's hot and sunny with views back towards the Auckland sky line. On the way back I hop off at Devonport a quaint suburb hub of cafes.

Auckland Museum

Friday 1st: a morning swim with Susan then she drops me off in the Domain parklands at the Auckland museum. It's a good museum- lots of Maori history and I begin to try to learn about these people and the culture. Back for BBQ chicken and sweetcorn- hmm, I think they fed me too well to speed my departure.

After some planning on Sat and wrestling with the awkward place names, and when Susan's back from work the 3 of us pop down to a harbour beach for a swim. New Zealand's still feeling cold to me after Australia but the cold nights are very pleasant. We go out for pizza in the evening and then to the Observatory for an excellent show about the summer night sky, looking through telescopes at Jupiter afterwards. Now I'm well set up to spot Canis major, minor and Taurus.

To New Zealand?? (Jan 27th)

　

Getting to NZ wasn't quite as simple as anticipated. Somehow whilst I thought I'd looked into New Zealand visas I'd not realised that I also needed a ticket out as a condition of the visa they would grant on landing. Ah. I have a frantic scramble at the airport, helped by a New Zealand Air official with the calmest voice I've ever heard and after 2 phone calls, a long time on hold, moving some money and paying a big chunk for a refundable ticket I didn't want, I was allowed to check in.


They decide to use a clearly new toy- a body scanner of the sort that's routine in Manchester (I was hoping for a diagnosis on my sore shoulder but alas...) and "randomly" check me for explosives so by the time I'm on the plane I'm feeling more than a little harassed.

One of the banes of frequent flying has to be the repetitiveness of the safety briefing- as a well mannered English person I feel obliged to listen- always more drawn to the in-flight magazine. NZ air had a Lord of the Rings based safety video with hobbits, elves and a cameo of Peter Jackson. I was so amused by it that I absorbed nothing. Luckily it was otherwise an uneventful flight :)

Adelaide to Perth Part 2: The South West

Mon 21st: Sunrise now unfortunately is about 5am but I pretend I'm still on SA time and make it out to see the sunrise above the sea. Totally worth it, especially with the kangaroo again. Later we walk the other way along the coast today from Hellfire bay via thistle bay back. It's stunning again with views out to the Recherche Archipelago. After a hot walk we're ready for the awesome swim.

 

By late afternoon the clouds are rolling in a bit and some of us head up Frenchmans Peak- a steep gradient up a rocky face but dry underfoot and easy by my English standards.

Tues 22nd: A last sunrise at the beach then driving back to Esperance and from there towards Albany which took most of the day. Late afternoon finds us in the Stirling ranges climbing a small mountain called Mt Hassell a lovely walk with great views.



The Firetree climb

Wed 23rd: We have a walk first thing at Castle rock in the Porongurup ranges, there's a granite outlook with a few handholds and then essentially a ladder to get up to the very top. Not the sort of thing you'd find unpoliced in the Uk. Next a visit to some rock formations The Gap and Natural Bridge near Frenchman's bay. Passing up the chance to fall onto the pounding surf which lashes the rocks we head on to the Tree Top walk near Walpole. Several suspension bridges amongst the tall Kauri and Tingle trees- serving to give an aerial appreciation of their height and protect their shallow roots from tramping feet. Beautiful but nerve wracking continues as the theme of the day as we isit one of the remaining fire look out trees; the Diamond tree near Pemberton. It's possible to climb the 50-odd metres to a platform in the crown of this solid old tree by way of the spikes spirally around the trunk. A hairy climb!

Thurs 24th: Today we head for the gastronomical delights of Margaret river and travel around a few wineries, cheese and chocolate shops and a brewery. Our last night sees us camping in Rapids conservation park next to a freshwater lake making for a wonderfully refreshing swim.

Fri 25th: Our last day and we spend the morning at Yallingup. Josh, an excellent aboriginal guide (half aboriginal, half of european descent) tells us much about the culture of his people, demonstrates how to make fire with a fire stick (!) and takes us down into the caves for a memoral didgeridoo rendition in a large cavern with natural acoustics. Lunch at Meelup Beach and then back to the urban chaos as we enter Perth.

Sat26th/Sun 27th: Laundry and a good scrub is needed. On the days we had showers water was limited so it's bliss to get properly clean. I spend a quiet day on Saturday and in the evening catch up with some of the group to watch the Australia day fireworks over the river in Perth. A great finale.

On Sunday it's time to leave this country which has been home for the last 1 year. A place of vast spaces, incredible and varied scenery, dangerous creatures, good times. Nostalgia in this case really is seeped in sunlight. With all my limbs thankfully intact and just a head full of memories and a tan as souvenirs I bid farewell.

Adelaide to Perth (16th-25th Jan) Part 1: Across the Nullarbor





Wed 16th: It's pretty hot, up in the 40s as I start this final camping trip which will cover 4000 -odd kilometres on a slightly convoluted route to Perth (but luckily the extreme temperatures only last a few days). North of Adelaide and into the Flinder's ranges first. There's a walk at Alligator gorge and we should be doing another but it's too hot for a long climb- we head to Quorn swimming pool for the afternoon instead. Camp is in Warren gorge amongst the Yellow-footed rock wallabies and it's a stunning spot. I'm happy to be back in a swag, sleeping under the stars and awaking with the birds, lying looking up at the brightening sky and the gum trees. Ah, I'm going to miss this!

Whirlwind

Thurs 17th: A long drive next day, through Port Augusta, Iron knob and Kimba, half way across Australia. We go swimming at the beach at Venus bay, it's intensely hot, when it cools down we walk along the cliff path to spot dolphins. We stay at Coodlie park caravan park and go out in the evening to look for wildlife. At last a wild wombat spot!

Fri 18th: To Bairds Bay this morning and out to swim with dolphins and Australian sealions. The water's pretty cold (next stop Antartica afterall) but it's amazing to be in the water first with a pod of dolphins, who play and swim round us and then with some sealions- all wild, no feeding, they simply choose to come and have a look and play. The sealions are like puppies- big eyes, cute whiskers, intensely loveable. On the boat we get in close to the beaches and see the sealions basking and the big males causing trouble. Plus comorants and flocks of Pelicans with their unlikely take- offs.

After lunch we have a surf lesson which is good fun then we head West, through Streaky bay and onto Fowlers Bay to camp.

Sat 19th: Up for sunrise over the sea, brekkie and then we start the Nullarbor- a long driving day ahead on the Eyre highway, named after John Edward Eyre one of the great explorers who spent 8 months trekking across here in 1841. We cross the dog fence and then stop above the Australian Bight- where the cliffs drop an abrupt 120m to the sea below. At the border we eat the rest of the fresh fruit and veg before crossing the quarantine point and turn back our watches 2 1/2 hours. We see the ruins of Eucla telegraph station once the link between WA and the rest of the country- eaten now by the sanddunes- and travel Australia's longest, straightest road. The Nullarbor isn't quite as devoid of trees as it's name suggests and the scenery is more variable than anticipated. And if you wanted you could play 18 holes of golf but unfortunately they're spread over 1365km! It's good to reach camp- a beautiful bush camp by a water hole at Afgan rocks, we have a camp fire (carefully) then sleep under the stars.



Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand NP

Sun 20th: I awake early, cold, swag damp on the outside from the dew, morning light beautiful. We travel the rest of the Nullarbor and pass through Norseman- the town named after a prospector's horse who kicked up a large nugget of gold in 1894. Esperance for supplies then on to Cape Le Grande NP. We're camping in Lucky Bay right next to the beach. This beach apparently has the whitest sand in the word, the sea is an sensational bright turquoise blue under a sunny sky and we're feeling pretty lucky!

Craig our guide drives us a few kms up the coast we then walk back through some beautiful bushland with sea views finishing up on the beach where we swim. Emerging from the sea the resident kangaroos who are pretty relaxed about people are drinking the water which seeps out of the sand dunes. It's an utterly perfect scene.