Yongala Shipwreck dive Fri 14th Sept

I'd heard that the Yongala shipwreck off the coast of Ayr was one of the world's top 10 places to dive. Seeing as I was passing I thought I'd go! Actually, it was logistically awkward to arrange but seemed as though it would be worth the effort.

Collected from Ayr and driven out to Alma beach where there was a residential area and the dive company and nothing else we spent a quiet afternoon and drank a few beers with the dive staff in the evening during which time they gentle yet systematically abused all their work vehicles on the grounds of functional (in)ability.

Next day dawned bright and after breakfast 11 of us were kitted out with dive gear, briefed and piled into the back of a jeep (it started 3rd time). We made it to the beach with a bit of excitement as this ancient vehicle had more than a few quirks. Our boat met us on the beach where it had been towed by tractor. We climbed aboard and launched. Thankfully the sea was much calmer than it had been a few days ago and the skipper was expecting less vomiting. A bumpy and fast 30 minutes later we were attaching to a line and starting to get ready. For me after 30 odd dives it was the first time I'd actually entered the water by backwards somersaulting. I was assured it was easy and yes it was; as easy as falling out of boat!

The Yongala wreck shipwrecked in 1911 went down with all of its crew and passengers. Now the remains have been placed in one area and since World Heritage listing - access into the wreck is no-longer allowed.

We descended into empty blueness then, at about 15 metres it started to appear, another 5 and we were level with the side that lies uppermost. This isn't a wreck you dive so much as a wreck but for the vast amount of aquatic life that lives around it. The adrenaline was pumping a bit from entering the water head first and then descending into the open sea- having heard this was a difficult site. Prepared to be impressed, not prepared for the instant sightings of Marble spotted and Eagle rays with wingspans more than 1 metre swimming over the edge of the wreck or for the colourful corals that grow all over the boat and fish, so many fish or shark sleeping within the wreck. Forwards to the bow and suddenly we were in the current but not alone. Hundreds, thousands of fish were lined up and spread out facing into the current all along the bow. In the midst a 1 metre plus long Queensland groper. It sounds bizarre. It was beautiful. Small fish interspersed like a confetti, soft corals waved from the rusting hulk, colourful fish darted between the uniform shoals. It was a living fish soup- and we were in the midst of it. And at this point it occured to me to listen for the whale song I'd heard about. Holding a breath here and there suddenly I heard it- beautiful high pitched notes and deeper softer navigational clicks. This was a different world and I didn't want to leave.

On our second dive we swam with a turtle and I spotted my first sea snake. More huge fish (according to the dive instructors jokes the Yongala went down with a load of anabolic steroids because the fish here are BIG!) I didn't want to leave but all too soon the air was getting low and with 2 safety stops to make due to its depth it was time to start for the surface.

The boat made it most of the way back in but difficulty navigating the sand flats meant we had to jump into waist deep water and wade back ashore. After lunch it was back to the bus stop to continue the drive South and exhausted from the dives I was soon in a contented doze.