Arnhem Land 30th August

Arnhem land is the Easterly continuation of Kakadu, another 91 000 sq kms. It's far more untouched and unvisited- it was declared an Aboriginal reserve in 1931 and in the last 40 000 years little has touched it but it's full of art sites, sacred sites, wildlife and beautiful landscapes.

Collected by Lord Safaris we cross the river into Arnhem land and are greeted by the site of Brolgas in the morning mist. At Gumbalanya we collect our Aboriginal guide and drive to the base of Injalak hill- one of the sacred hills. It's intensely hot and we slowly ascend. The rock art here is better than Kakadu and our guide explains some of the meanings as we move between rocks where once people lived and died and were buried. Bats hang from the ceilings in some places and spider's webs are everywhere.

We eat lunch from the shade of a cave- a 7000 year old wallaby is painted above my head and the expansive view is my favourite yet. My overall impression is simply that I need more time there, that I can't drink it in for the landscape is so immense and so breathtakingly beautiful in an old and wild way that I'm overwhelmed.