Tuesday, 24 July 2012

To El Questro and Emma gorge, June 30th


It's intensely cold next morning but at least no one got taken by the crocs in the night. (kidding Mum, we were safe!). It's my turn up front meaning great views of the dusty road, spiniflex grass, gum and acacia trees. Pay off is Dj duty and waving duty- hardly onerous, we pass only about 4 vehicles an hour. Hills rise up as we pass into the Cockburn ranges. It's so intensely beautiful with a vast blue sky and incredible sense of isolation. In the middle of this we reach the Pentacost river- which, like the gorges and small river crossings is a lush blue/ green contrast to the dusy landscape around.

Emma gorge was to be my favourite gorge because it contained such a proliferation and variation of flora. Palms pushed upwards from the tumbled rocks at the bottom of the gorges, contrasting with the orange-red gorge walls and blue sky above whilst ferns fringed cool pools in the shade. We swam at pretty Emma falls then meandered back and headed to camp at El Questro.

El Questro is a tiny settlement, originally just an unthriving cattle station but now making money from tourists who come to visit the dramatic gorges. Although we were camping there's also some 5* accommodation for celebrities, heads of state etc. The name is a corruption of a Spanish term for hills which rise gently then drop away sharply but the story goes that the new owner was hungover and incapable when he came to register the name.

It's a large campsite and all the females at least are happy to see the showers. We have a chance to get clean, launder clothes and recharge camera batteries. There's even a bar and after dinner tour-guide Rob's girlfriend is singing and playing guitar.

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