Ten days in Tassie, Part 2

The temperature is down a little for my first full day, I have a wander around the town which is fairly quiet apart from the Saturday market, and then in the afternoon go up to Mount Wellington summit (1271m) to check out the views and then cycle down- exhilarating!

Next day I hire car and drive SW of Hobart via the Channel highway which hugs the coast with some beautiful scenery. Finally, I made it to Cockle Creek- the farthest place South that you can drive in Australia- the End of the Road. There are stunning bays here- my camera couldn't do justice to the colours of the sea. I had lunch then hiked across the peninsula through forest and beautiful scrubland to a wild beach- where the cold sea breeze reminded me that Antartica wasn't so far away- spotting an occasional wallaby on the way.

Echidna

Mon 7th I leave Hobart on a 6 day tour trip around the island. We can't visit Mt Field NP, it's closed because there are concerns about bushfires starting there. Lake St Clair is further North- very pretty, we have lunch, a short walk and a close encounter with an Echnidna. There's great scenery all the way to Strahan, a little coastal place.

Cradle Mountain behind Dove Lake

The notoriously changeable Tasmanian weather finally catches up with us the next day with a cold change. Henty sanddunes then a longer walk through cool temperate rainforest (in the rain) to the impressive Montezuma falls occupy us. In the evening we see an entertaining play called "The ship that never was" based on a true convict escape story.



Wednesday and we head to Cradle Mountain in the rain, it's cold and sleeting as we wrap up to start a walk around Dove lake at the base of the snow-covered mountain. Yes, snow, just a few days after temperatures of 42 and I can't feel my fingers. As the cloud rolls about though there's some beautiful scenery. Leaving the mountains and heading to Launceston the weather's improving and we pass through Sheffield- a town with murals painted on the side of all the houses.

Next day a visit to Cataract gorge in Launceston, not spectacular but we photograph some obliging wallabies and displaying peacocks. From here to St Helens for lunch and then through the Fingle valley- with rolling hills and sheep grazing in the foreground, mountains in the distance- to the Bay of Fires. A beach walk here admiring the contrast of blue sea, white sand and orange lichen- covered rocks. Onto Bicheno for the night and a late evening tour to see the loveable Little Penguins as they return to their sand-dune homes for the night.

Wineglass Bay

Friday we visit Wine Glass Bay in Freycinet national park on the East coast. As we arrive the cloudy sky clears and everything smells wonderfully fresh from the rain. There's great views, pleasant woodland walk to another pristine beach- 1 of the top 10 in the world. From here onto Ross through more rolling hills, some vineyards and crops of tomatoes and cherries. Ross is an historic town, reminiscent of an English village, old by Australian standards with the 3rd oldest bridge in the country. After lunch we visit a wildlife sanctuary at Bonorong and see our first Tasmanian devil, the largest marsupial carnivore since the Tasmanian tiger was hunted to extinction in the 1970s (well some say it still exists and, in the western wilds of Tasmania, it's by no means impossible). Now the Tassie devil is endangered and scientists are working on a cure for the transmissable facial tumours which have a 100% mortality rate and will cause this species to be extinct within the next few decades if unchecked.

Tasmanian Devil

Our final day was meant to be a trip to Port Arthur but the Tasman Peninsula was still closed following the devastating bushfires so we went the other way and South of Hobart to Hastings Caves and down to Cockle Creek for more great coastal scenery.

Exploring alone again next day I head to Mt Fields NP and see the famous Russell falls, take in some other trails as well and spot some Wallabies and Pandemelons (small wallaby type creatures), parrots and birds of prey. I continue to Styx valley to see some big trees. It's a day with intermittent showers, overcast and changable.


Next day I'm due a restful day and then leave the following day flying to Adelaide via Melbourne.

Russell falls

Ten days in Tassie 4th-14th

From the peace of the Blue Mountains it's back to Sydney airport and a short trip across to Tasmania. I'm expecting Tasmania to be cool and fresh like the mountains but instead when we land it's 42 C! The highest recorded temperature in Hobart. And this is a problem as bush fires have started SE of the capital- I could see plumes of smoke from the plane as we came in to land- they are raging out of control. People are evacuated and the Tasman peninsula (SE of Hobart) is cut off. Over the next few days many bush fires burn and are fought, hundreds of homes are lost. Listening to the radio a few days later there are lots of updates and information for residents about whether they should watch and act or activate their bushfire plan- ie evacuate or stay and try to defend their homes.



I read an account of neighbours- 1 family leaves, another stays, dousing their home with water until it runs out, but then their escape route along the road is cut off and their only recourse is to dash down to the water, running with the wallabies and possums also trying to escape. They huddle at the end of a jetty for 2 hours breathing through wet towels, their home survives, their neighbours' explodes.

It's another side of Australia- this constant threat of bushfires whenever the conditions are right. When a cold change comes with rain a few days later the situation improves.


Discovered by Abel Tasman in 1642 and originally named for the govenor of the Dutch East Indies; Van Diemans's Land, it wasn't until 50 years later the bass strait was discovered and it was no-longer thought to be part of the mainland. It had a reputation as a prison-island hell and the demise of the Aboriginals at the hands of the British settlers is particularly barbaric. But now it's a gentler place with astounding natural beauty- the main draw.

Tasmania is about the size of Ireland. Actually closer to the Antartic circle than Cairns. It has some of the freshest air and cleanest water and Tasmanian produce is top quality. 40% of the island is protected in National parks, the West is wild, almost inaccessible, then there are glacial mountains and river systems harnessed for hydroelecticity. In the midlands rolling hills and cultivation- we passed fields of sheep, fields of opium- charming villages reminiscent of England. The East coast has the best weather and beautiful beaches, there are also numerous areas of cool temperate rainforest.

Blue Mountains- A spot of Bushwalking 2nd-3rd Jan

The Blue Mountains- canyons really- are part of the Great dividing range - a string of mountains running all the way down the East side of Australia, getting closer to the coast the further North travelled. When Sydney was first settled the explorers simply couldn't find their way over this barrier to get West, as they kept meeting vertical rock faces, finally they followed ridges and made it to the top of the plateau where towns like Katoomba are settled now. Railways opened this area up to tourism in the early 20th Centuary and that was the time when many of the paths and steps were dug into the cliff faces.



There's something wonderful about the smell of gum trees. I've taken the train to Wentworth falls at the suggestion of the hostel owner and walk along a trail by a stream and down to the pretty waterfall. The wind's tossing water droplets about and the sun's making them sparkle, looking the other way there are great views across the Blue Mountains.

I have a lovely long walk and return exhausted to Katoomba. By late afternoon the bright blue sky is replaced with cloud and drizzle.

My legs take a bit more persuading the next day as I head to the edge of the cliffs at Katoomba and see the moutains shrouded in cloud, down into the valley then to walk through the woods to Leura Cascades and falls, by the time I'm starting to climb back up the cliffs the sun is shining and the views are back.

I catch the bus back today and have an early night!

Sydney to the Blue Mountains - Jan 1st 2013

After checking out this morning I make my way to the sky tower to look down on the views of the city. It's clear blue sky and sparkling blue water around the city. Impressive. Also they seem to have cleared up all the rubbish and fences from last night's shanigans. On my first visit nearly a year ago I hadn't really felt the Sydney love- perhaps it was partly the weather I'm not sure but it's only now I've really appreciated what a beautiful city it is.

I wander back via a stop in Hyde park where a singer is busking next to a fountain. It's a comfortable temperature and I rememer how sitting in the sun can be pleasant rather than something to be avoided!

A 2 hour train journey to Katoomba takes me into the heart of the Blue Mountains. A world-heritage listed play area for Sydney-siders named for the blueish haze which often hangs over the mountains. We travel through lots of tiny stations- quaint. Katoomba station manages a digital clock but the signs for the stops at the platforms are rotating wooden pieces on a board. It's peaceful as I walk down the hill to my hostel, a world away from the city.

A 40 minute walk that evening takes me to Echo Point where the famous 3 sisters can be viewed. Another slight lump-in-throat feeling recognising a well known landmark. It's busy at here, a beautiful view and the sun setting.

Sydney for New Year

Due to Amanda's parents flying home to Perth at the same time I'm leaving for Sydney I get to wait for my flight as their guest in the Quantas club- an interesting insight into how the other half live. Free tea, cake and wine is always a winner!

Someone gets thrown off the flight before we leave (well better than after we leave I guess) I think for being drunk then whilst they're locating luggage an afternoon storm rolls in and we're waiting on the runway.

5 and a bit hours later we're in Sydney. A train to the middle and I alight at Circular Quay and walk up to my hostel in The Rocks area catching glimpses of the Harbour Bridge and Opera House. It's latish by Sydney time but that's 90 minutes ahead of Helen time and there's lots of people about so I join them walking across the illuminated bridge and down to the Opera house, partly to suss out a plan for the fireworks tommorrow. After a while I notice something strange. It's a pleasant temperature! No sweating!

In the end I meet up with 4 new friends I'd met on the outback trip from Adelaide to Alice. After 2 hours queuing we make it into Mrs Macquarie's point and find a spot in the shade to while away the afternoon. Some more dedicated people have been staking their patch since 6am but in the end when the action starts we manage to get a view of most of the Harbour bridge. (There's a few too many trees in this bit of the botanical gardens) 9pm is the family fireworks so that the kid's can go to bed. Between then and midnight we watch the lit up boats sailing around the harbour and get some caffeine into us.



By 11.30 we're crammed in position, the minutes are taking ages to pass, the legs are feeling rather tired. Then there's a countdown and on "one" fireworks erupt from the top of the harbour bridge and everyone's cheering, forgetful of the tight cram. It's a hell of a display- the harbour bridge is the centre piece but the fireworks are coming from the top of the skyscrapers in the CBD to the left and from somewhere else on the right as well. When an illusion is created that a wide, golden waterfall is pouring from the bridge there's a collective gasp then cheer of appreciation. The finale is spectactular- overwhelming, too many directions to look in at once. Hello 2013.
 

Darwin for Christmas- 23-30th Dec

Darwin is a chance to rest and regroup at Susie's house. It's rather different from the last time I was here. Strictly speaking it's wet season but there's not been an awful lot of rain and so the weather is still intensely humid with temperatures in the low 30s but feeling so much warmer. The whole time I'm there I'm sweating. And usually I don't sweat. In the streets you see pools developing at people's feet. Ok not quite. But it's hot!



Shrimps on the barby!

Christmas is a lovely day- 10 of us for dinner which is cold meats, prawns (shrimps on the barby!) salads and a lot of cold beer. Much of the day is spent keeping cool in the swimming pool, as evening approaches we take the dogs 10 minutes down the road for sunset at the beach.
The rest of my time passes trying to survive the heat. Taking Ben for some walks morning or evening, swimming, getting the blog up to date and doing some planning and organising. Longing for the storms which sometimes break the humidity but sometimes get blown away by the sea breezes before they can refresh us. We have a meal out one night when Amanda's parents visit and a bbq on my last evening.
A last sunset at the beach- broken clouds and rain on the horizon, to the West streaks of lightning. Walking home in the dusk amidst the sounds of cicadas, frogs and the hauntingly beautiful cry of Curlews back to watch the geckos on the wall outside stalking insects and chirruping. It's a beautiful place but it's not easy to live here, not in the wet.